Bamboo Bloom Raglan Pattern
The pattern is here! A fresh take on a classic shape—The Bamboo Bloom Raglan is bottom-up, mostly seamless, and surprisingly quick to knit. With its fluid drape, shifts in color, and unique texture, each one ends up feeling totally one-of-a-kind — a soft statement piece that lands somewhere between cozy and cool.
Sizes
Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5)
To fit busts: 32-34 (34-36, 36-38, 38-40, 40-42)”
Finished bust circumference (after blocking): 38 (40, 42, 44, 46)”
Gauge
11-12 sts x 16-17 rows = 4”
Note: gauge may vary based on how the fabric is blocked; the yarn has significant stretch.
Yarn
Universal Yarn Bamboo Bloom Handpaints — 154yds / 100g (48% rayon from bamboo, 44% wool, 8% acrylic)
Yarn Requirements
• Size 1: 3 skeins
• Size 2: 4 skeins
• Size 3: 4 skeins
• Size 4: 5 skeins
• Size 5: 5 skeins
Needles
• 8mm circular needles, at least 30” cord (for body; also used for magic loop on sleeves)
• 6.5mm circular needles, 16” cord (for neckline)
• Optional: 8mm shorties (for sleeves, instead of magic loop)
Notions
• 4 stitch markers (optional: 1 in a different color for beginning of round)
• Tapestry needle
• Blocking mats and pins (essential for shaping and finishing — this yarn changes a lot with blocking)
Notes
Spit Splicing: Despite the yarn only being 44% wool, I had great luck with spit splicing. You can refer to this website for a helpful step-by-step guide on how to do it.
Attaching Sleeves: Refer to this video for guidance on how to attach the sleeves.
Neckline Shaping: This video demonstrates a similar neckline shaping technique, which can help provide a clearer visual reference if you’re having trouble picturing the process. Be sure to follow the written instructions, as the technique shown differs slightly.
Size Chart and Finished Measurements
This pattern is written for five sizes, labeled 1 (2, 3, 4, 5). Pick the size that matches your actual bust. The sweater is designed to have about 4-6 inches of positive ease for a fitted yet relaxed fit. If you prefer an oversized look, consider sizing up.
|
Meas. |
Size 1 |
Size 2 |
Size 3 |
Size 4 |
Size 5 |
|
To fit bust |
32-34 |
34-36 |
36-38 |
38-40 |
40-42 |
|
Finished bust |
38 |
40 |
42 |
44 |
46 |
|
Flare Wrist Circ. |
13.5 |
14.5 |
15.5 |
16.5 |
17.5 |
|
Upper Arm Circ. |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
|
Armhole Depth |
7.5 |
8 |
8.5 |
9 |
9.5 |
|
Raglan Line |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
Note: All measurements are in inches and taken after blocking. These are approximate and may shift slightly depending on how the project is blocked, due to the stretch of the yarn.
—Pattern Instructions—
Sleeves
Both flared and straight sleeves are worked from the wrist up, stopping about 3 inches below the underarm. This length includes a little bit extra to allow for stretching during blocking. If you are knitting a larger size for an oversized fit, the deeper yoke may make the sleeves hang lower—you may want to stop a little sooner to keep the sleeves from ending up too long. For reference, my sleeves measured about 15 inches from wrist to underarm before joining to the body.
Flared Sleeves
CO 41 (44, 47, 50, 53) sts using a long-tail cast on.
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for the beginning of the round.
Work in stockinette, decreasing every 6th round for 30 rounds:
Decrease round: K1, k2tog, knit to end.
You will have 36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts after 30 rounds.
Continue knitting in stockinette until the sleeve measures to about 3 inches below the underarm. When you reach that length, bind off 5 (6, 5, 6, 5) stitches at the beginning of the next round. To prevent gapping, consider twisting the first two stitches of the bind off by knitting them through the back loop. Finish the round and place the remaining stitches on hold.
Straight Sleeves
CO 36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts using a long-tail cast on.
Join in the round, being careful not to twist, and work in stockinette until the sleeve measures about 3 inches below the underarm.
When you reach that length, bind off 5 (6, 5, 6, 5) stitches at the beginning of the next round. To prevent gapping, consider twisting the first two stitches of the bind off by knitting them through the back loop. Finish the round and place the remaining stitches on hold.
Body
CO 102 (108, 114, 120, 126) using the long-tail cast on.
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
Work in stockinette until the body measures to about 3 inches below the underarm—this is where the sleeves will be joined.
Underarm Bind-Offs
To shape the underarms before attaching the sleeves, work the following bind-off row across the body:
Size 1: BO 5, k44, BO5, k48
Size 2: BO 6, k46, BO 6, k50
Size 3: BO 5, k50, BO 5, k54
Size 4: BO 6, k52, BO 6, k56
Size 5: BO 5, k56, BO 5, k60
You’ll now have two sections separated by the bind-offs: the smaller number of stitches is the front; the larger is the back.
Attaching Sleeves
With the body and both sleeves complete, you’re ready to join them into one piece for the yoke.
Use a spare circular needle to hold each sleeve. Line up the sleeves with the body so the underarm bind-offs match. Using the working yarn from the body, knit across the first sleeve, then continue across the front body, second sleeve, and back body.
For a visual guide, refer to the video linked in the Notes section.
Yoke
K2tog, knit to 2 sts before next marker, ssk, slip marker, knit 1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before next marker, ssk, knit 1, slip marker; repeat that sequence once more. You'll end the round with a ssk, knit 1 just before the beginning-of-round marker.
• The first decrease pair is split between the end and beginning of the round: you begin the round with a k2tog, and end the round with a ssk, knit 1.
• Each set of decreases is worked as: k2tog, [knit 1 body stitch], ssk—with that plain knit stitch falling on the body side of the shaping. This keeps the decreases leaning in toward the body and gives a clean, mirrored look along the raglan lines.
Work the same decrease structure, but only at the front and back body sections. Knit straight across both sleeves with no shaping.
*Note: Odd-numbered rounds are plain knit unless otherwise stated. Continue to your size below.
Size 1
Rows 1-8: Work dec(b) every other row, and dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 9-11: Knit (no decreases).
Rows 12-17: Work dec(b+s) every other row.
At the end of Row 17, begin neckline shaping (see “Neckline Shaping” section).
Rows 18-27: Continue dec(b+s) every other row, along with neckline shaping.
Size 2
Rows 1-8: Work dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 9-16: Work dec(b) every other row, and dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 17-21: Work dec(b+s) every other row.
At the end of Row 21, begin neckline shaping (see “Neckline Shaping” section).
Rows 22-31: Continue dec(b+s) every other row, along with neckline shaping.
Size 3
Rows 1-8: Work dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 9-20: Work dec(b) every other row, and dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 21-25: Work dec(b+s) every other row.
At the end of Row 25, begin neckline shaping (see “Neckline Shaping” section).
Rows 26-35: Continue dec(b+s) every other row, along with neckline shaping.
Size 4
Rows 1-12: Work dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 13-24: Work dec(b) every other row, and dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 25-29: Work dec(b+s) every other row.
At the end of Row 29, begin neckline shaping (see “Neckline Shaping” section).
Rows 30-39: Continue dec(b+s) every other row, along with neckline shaping.
Size 5
Rows 1-12: Work dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 13-28: Work dec(b) every other row, and dec(b+s) every 4th row.
Rows 29-33: Work dec(b+s) every other row.
At the end of Row 33, begin neckline shaping (see “Neckline Shaping” section).
Rows 34-43: Continue dec(b+s) every other row, along with neckline shaping.
Neckline Shaping
When you reach the neckline shaping row for your size (Row 18 (22, 26, 30, 34)), place makers around the center 4 stitches of the front body. At this point, there should be 30 stitches between the front raglan markers.
1. Slip the first sleeve, then slip 13 stitches of the front body.
2. Rejoin yarn to bind off the middle 4 stitches. (To prevent gapping, twist the first two stitches of the bind off by knitting them through the back loop.)
3. You’ll now have one stitch on your right needle. Slip one more stitch, then work a ssk—this is your new beginning of row.
Continue working across the yoke, doing your usual dec(b+s).
When you reach the other side, just before the neckline gap, work a k2tog, then turn.
Purl back with no decreases.
From here on:
• On RS rows: ssk, continue shaping (dec(b+s)), k2tog before turning
• On WS rows: Purl straight across
Repeat until the neckline decreases sit right next to the raglan line decreases.
Purl one final row, then bind off loosely using a regular bind off.
Neckline Finishing
Using your smaller (6.5 mm) needles, cast on evenly around the neckline, beginning at the back, and join in the round.
Work 2-3 rounds of stockinette, then bind off using a double-pass bind off.
Double-Pass Bind Off
This bind off mirrors the look of a long-tail cast on and creates a neat edge with both structure and stretch. It’s the best option I found for a clean bind off with this yarn.
1. Knit 1 stitch.
2. Slip the next stitch purlwise.
3. Pass the first stitch over the second, like a standard bind off.
4. Slip the stitch back onto the left needle.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 until all stitches are bound off.
6. Cut the yarn and pull through the final stitch to secure.
Finishing + Blocking
Sew up the gaps at the underarms by stitching the bound-off edges together.
Weave in all ends.
Soak the sweater in lukewarm water with a gentle detergent for about 20-30 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water—don’t wring— and roll it in a towel to remove more moisture.
Lay flat on blocking mats and use your hands to gently shape and even everything out. Bamboo Bloom has a textured, uneven quality, so take your time getting the fabric to lay flat and cohesive. Pin in place as needed.
Once dry, steam lightly to relax the fabric and help remove any creases from blocking. A bit of steam can also encourage the fabric to stretch into shape—but be careful not to overdo it if you’re happy with the current size.
Thanks so much for checking out my free pattern. If you have any questions, feel free to DM me on Instagram @funkyfreshfibers. If you make one, I’d love to see it—feel free to share your project and tag me so I can check it out!
 |
| Me (Size 1) wearing Size 1 with straight sleeves |
Helpful Links
Spit splicing: https://thefibreco.com/blogs/fibre-journal/spit-splice-tutorial
Attaching sleeves: https://youtu.be/oMFxB2FIZcc?si=X95shkNVySnWnvIQ
Neckline shaping: https://youtu.be/xdtyWUQ-EJA?si=yVkUbv-xAYQLOEB7
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